My year in Taiwan is over. It has been over for a week but I wanted to let a little time pass before I wrote a "final" blog entry.

I have now spent some quality time with my brother in Albuquerque, NM and have now spent whole day hugging two little unsuspecting boys to death with the following thoughts (in random order):

1) I adore my family but they seem to have carried on just fine without me.
2) Technology is an amazing thing. Tyler seems to think there is nothing different between talking to me on videochat and talking to me in person. Barely a flicker of interest when he saw me in the flesh -- just a continuation of our last chat.

3) To look back on the year: definitely positive, in all ways: professional, societal, financial -- all ways.

4) Does this mean that it was all great? Not a chance! I really can't say with any honesty that I like teaching junior high. As before, I like 9th grade but much younger moves into someone else's realm. I had/made some of the most wonderful friendships I have ever had in my life but my principal never EVER spoke to me in a year. On the last day, we had a "teachers' appreciation" lunch and he came around to the tables (as is the custom) to toast the people at the tables and didn't even glance at me. I am trying hard to not let that be the last memory of my time in Taiwan since the rest was so good.

5) So. Let's talk about the good. 1) some real student improvement which is difficult to measure but other teachers noticed it. 2) some really fine teacher friends that I hope I will be able to maintain good relationships with through the wonders of email. 3) some promising students who will maybe escape from the rice paddies and want more education and maybe someday I can help them. I know I would be willing. 4) Two really adorable 18 month old "adopted" grandchildren that I hope will let me stay a part of their lives. 5) Three teacher friends -- 2 American and 1 Canadian -- that I hope to remain friends with forever. All in all, not bad for one year.

6) Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. IN FACT! I am going to but this time in Turkey. New blog to be created come September from Istanbul -- and I promise, this time it will be illustrated!

Days Dwindling Down

The year is almost over. I can't believe it it has gone so fast.

Last weekend was my last travel weekend -- we went to Tainan to see my friend Linda compete in the Dragon Boat Races. This is a big 4 day extravaganza of groups of 16 with some affiliation racing long canoe type boas. Because it it so hot already, the races are held at night and the boats are all decorated with colored lights. Linda and 15 other teachers from her school gave it a go but without enthusiasm. Seems their principal ordered them to do it so they did, but made sure they lost the first round.

I still haven't nailed down a job. I have two contracts from colleges in China so that is the fallback. Turkey remains my first choice if someone would just make up their mind! I am going to give them until Monday, then sign with China.

Now comes the hard part -- packing, sacking and giing stuff away. Hate that.

Things I Won't Miss

I know that my last couple of blogs will be tearful and sappy so I thought I would get the more negative things out of the way.

Things I won't miss:
1) Lukewarm food. Since I mostly eat at school, the food is big serving buckets which are not kept warm at all. By the time we get around to eating them, they are all warm. Also most restaurant food is not hot, I don't know why because dishes are brought out as ready.

2) Rain. This is our 12th straight day of really heavy rain and it is miserable.

3) Being dependent on a bike for my transportation. There are people I can hitch rides with but I save those for bad weather. It means that anytime I travel anywhere, I have to first ride my bike 45 minutes just to get to the train station. Going shopping is an almost everyday thing since I can't carry much.

4) Always having to wonder whether both sides of a conversation understand what was just said, also not being able to kid around much -- the translation would never make it.

5) The general obliviousness I mentioned earlier.

6) The tendency to make last minute plans with the assumption that it will be fine with you. Or sometimes the plans are made, but no one bothers to tell you until one hour before.

7) The lack of stimulation in my town. Nice folks, but farmers all.

8) Although there are teachers here that I hope I will stay close to, the general conservative policies of the school can drive you wild.

Winding Down

I will leave Taiwan 3 weeks from today. Although I have really enjoyed this year, I can't say as I am sorry to go. I think this sorta-city girl needs more than a rural small town can deliver. People have been super but I sort of wonder how many, if any, I will stay in touch with long term.

I gave a workshop a couple of weeks ago for the other teachers. On the cover of my handout I put my email address, told them it was my "forever address" and said they now had a friend in America. They chorused back with "what does that mean?". A panicky moment as I pictured them and all of their loved ones descending on wherever I end up living, but having come to know a little about these folks, I know I need not fear. They have to be home to Mom's house for dinner by Sunday latest.

As a person who comes from a rather "loose" family grouping, it is difficult for me to imagine the obligation of couples marrying and having to move in with the husband's parents, like it or not. Especially when they are educated, employed and the parents are not needy.

Culture Shot

For those of us in rural areas, any trip to the "big city" is truly noteworthy. This time, however it was even more so.

The three of us usual traveling companions, plus our young Taiwanese friend from Kaoshiung, all got to Taipei last Friday evening. We went out for much anticipated Mexican food which wasn't bad, but wasn't Mexican.

The next morning we did a little shopping (me, for lighter weight clothes since it has grown warm here) and then in the afternoon, Rochelle and I went to see "A Touch of Zen" at the National Theater.

First, I have to comment on how beautiful the theater is, really lovely and ornate without the "over the topness" one often finds in Taiwan. When we got there, the police were stringing concertina and putting up barricades because there was a scheduled demonstration coming up. We got inside and were able to get pretty good tickets, despite it being almost sold out.

It is difficult to describe the show since it is not like anything I have ever seen: kind of a cross between ballet, kung fu, a precision drill team and a percussion band -- but just amazing. The troop (U-Theater) is several years old and made up of a Taipei Martial Arts group and real Shaolin monks. (If you remember that old TV show "Kung Fu", David Carradine had been raised at the Shaolin Monastery). The music is almost all drums and gongs of all sizes, plus some wooden things being struck by other wooden things. Two of the scenes also used a piano.

There wasn't much story, but that really didn't matter. About half the time they move in slow motion and then explode into these widely acrobatic moves. Great! Anyway, yu will get a chance to see them, they will be part of the opening ceremony at the Beijing Olympics in 2008.

The next day, despite a heavy rain and a really long line, we went to see the "Treasures of the British Museum" exhibit at the National Palace Museum. It also was very good, which is a good thing since we were drenched and then it was mobbed inside. It was still worth it.

Still nothing firm on the job scene. I thought I had something good going with a school in Turkey but now I think they are just stringing me along.

Back to the search...

Return

Well, it has been interesting to see who has been reading my blog and who hasn't. I have gotten reprimanding emails from all sorts of people since I got a little "behind on my reporting". Truth to tell, I've been concentrating on trying to find a new job and that is never very interesting to others.

Somewhere in this process I decided that I sm "China-ed out". Three years in Beijing, now 2 years in Taipei, and a year in Hong Kong -- I think I'm done. This is supposed to be my time for adventure, not same-o same-o.

With that decision made, and a much earlier decision to not go to Korea, I have eliminated about 80% of the available ESL jobs.

Of the remaining 20% 1) I am not an EU citizen (another 50% gone) not man (most of the jobs in the Middle East), not under 55 (the rest of the jobs in the Middle East) and can't afford to be strictly a volunteer (another big chunk). So my field is somewhat limited.

I am currently at the "second-interview" stage with a great sounding school in Istanbul which I would love. We haven't gotten around to talking about money and/or benefits so I don't know if I could afford it if offered but so far I'm interested.

I'll keep you posted.

Green Island

Well, I am still figuring out the camera stuff but I don't want to let too much time go by before I write about my last trip so here goes. Last Thursday was a religious/cultural holiday set aside for "tomb sweeping" -- going to the graves of relatives and cleaning them up. The government, in its infinite wisdom, made it into a four day holiday by giving everyone Friday off also. Actually, it isn't a gift -- we have to work this Saturday to make it up.

Anyway, three of us went to Green Island, off the southeast coast. We had tried to go there before but the weather was too bad in February so we thought we would wait until April and try again. It was colder and rainier than it had been in February! but we went anyway.

Took the train to Taitung -- about 6 hours total, where we spent the night in a pretty grim hostel. We got our money's worth but only because it was REALLY cheap. It was the only place we could find as this is a popular travel weekend.

Took the ferry the next morning in the pouring rain. It only takes 45 minutes but for the queasy among us, it was a long rough ride. One friend stayed outside and didn't get sick but did get soaked!

The island is gorgeous. It began its life as 5 volcanoes so all beaches are black and there are massive lava boulders everywhere. Anywhere it has been ground down is incredibly lush and the mountains fall straight to the water in many places, reminiscent of Hawaii.

I had planned this trip so that I could go diving at least once in Taiwan and did. It was a great dive despite a very strong current discovered after hiking about 1000 yards in full gear down stairs and across slippery rocks to get to the water. I decided once was enough.

We had a great barbeque dinner. These are popular here. It's an all you can eat, cook it yourself extravaganza. They barbeque sort of odd things but by and large it is a much needed protein infusion.

The next day we diod what was supposed to be the highlight of the trip -- a visit to one of the world's three salt water hot spring spas. You can sit in the hot water and watch the sun rise and the waves rolling right up to you! Well, there was no sunrise since it was pouring so we went back to sleep. By the time we got there, it was mobbed and the bathhouses are not as nice as they were in Chihpen the last time. So, I had no sandals, no towel and it was cold and rainy. It is actually nifty to sit in hot water and have cold rain coming down around you, but here you must walk a long way in the cold rain before you get to the hot water. In other words, it wasn't quite as nice as I had pictured.

One of the most fun things was that we rented a golf cart for the three of us to ride around in. It was great because it was covered and offered at least a little protection from the rain and is quiet enough to talk comfortably. The island is only 9 miles around so we did the whole round and it is truly beautiful.

The island has a bad historical connotation. During the 50s and 60s, it was used as a penal colony for political prisoners of the KMT. That is over now, and they are trying to develop its tourist potential and, from the amount of people, I would say it has been successful.

Pets

As you may notice, I haven't done anything really exciting lately, though we have a 4 day weekend this next week and some of us are going back to Green Island. I will be diving at least once and it looks like such a beautiful place that this next blog may be my first illustrated one!

For now, I thought I would talk about pets. Taiwan's new economic status leaves room for extra mouths to feed so people have gotten into pets (mostly dogs) in a big way. There are enormous numbers of Retrievers here of all colors. Lately, there has been the discovery of what we at home called the "pocket dogs" -- itty bitty ones who surprise you only when they move.

Dogs are not leashed here so they roam around always looking for a willing petter (me!) except for the ones that are kept in too-small cages. Those break your heart because they are usually kept outside and I guess, are supposed to be barking warnings but mostly they just sit and look miserable. But despite (or because of?) not being leashed, the dogs are very well behaved. I have one night barker in my neighborhood who sometimes gets the others going, but by and large, a rice and vegetable diet seems to make for a placid animal.

There are at least two Petsmarts here which have started the whole routine of doggie goodies - clothes, toys, strollers (!), packs for them to ride in while on a motorscooter, all to make your pet the cutest on the block.

Discounts

Everybody loves a deal, Chinese are no different. We are coming into sale season so the "discounts" are intensified. Only they go about it a little differently.

1) When you buy gas, you will get a "present" -- something odd like a papaya.
2) To get the advertised 60% off, you must buy a LOT of them -- like 10 pairs of jeans.
3) At "better" stores, you may or may not get a discount but you will get a present -- like a blanket.

The only one that is especially enjoyed is that teachers get a discount on lots of stuff -- hotel rooms, books, not clothing usually but I have had it work. At payment time, you just mention that you are a teacher and see what happens. You might get a papya.

Spring

After a couple of false starts, and disappointing backslides, it appears that spring is finally here. It's funny, though, mornings are dark grey, cool, kind of foggy but by 9:00 it is glorious.

I thought this called for an agricultural update. I have told you that I am in a very rural area (or as my brother says "Karen's time in Green Acres"), and the second rice crop is now in. In between the fileds grew something else -- vegetables, sunflowers, garlic, etc. but now it is rice again. It isn't quite as backbreaking as it used to be. The small plants come in a roll like turf and a tractor kind of thing lays out the roll. Then they flood the paddies.

It's quite nice, actually. The plants are a lovely green color and egrets come and walk up and down the ropws. The only bad part is that at night there are frogs that are loud enough to keep me awake and all this standing water brings mosquitoes.

Hot Springs

Taiwan is volcanic. It is easy to forget that in the flatland west where I live, but the whole middle of the island is mountainous and most of the beaches are black. The side benefit of this history is hot springs. There are many hot springs around the country, most have been "included" into a hotel so that for some you must be staying at the hotel to use them but most are also open to the public.

We went to a couple at the beginning of our vacation. We went to Taitung, a lovely small city on the southeast coast of Taiwan. The first night we went to the hot spring at our small hotel and it was okay, but no great shakes. Kind of like a big bathtub but not as hot.

The next afternoon we went to a "real" one. A huge place associated with the fanciest hotel in the area. The water comes out of the ground hot enough to boil eggs so the different temperature of the pools is a result of hot much cold water is added, not the other way around.

There was one huge pool which had a bunch of different stations around the sides where water jets came out to massage different parts of your body. Quite nifty. Then in a different room there were hotter small pools with the temperature displayed on the wall above each one. I went into one that was a little hotter than the big pool but there were four hotter ones, the hottest could have cooked a chicken.

Great fun.

Chinese New Year (2)

I was rereading the last couple of posts and I realized that I had given short shrift to the biggest holiday of the year. Chinese New Year is a combination of Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year, your birthday and Spring Festival. It is a REALLY big deal -- hence the long vacation. Even the Post Office is closed for a week!

Like most holidays everywhere, a lot centers around food -- traditional foods served at the big dinner, and any kind of food colored orange because it is reminiscent of gold. This year is the Year of the Pig, one of the more propitious years in the lunar calendar. Everyone begins with the thought that this year will be better than last -- just like we do!

Children are the big beneficiaries of the celebrations. They receive "hung bao" red envelopes with cash inside. The amount, of course depends on family circumstances and the strength of the relationship between giver and receiver. It has to be a round number, however, 200 NT, not 300. I also stuck in some of the ubiquitous gold wrapped chocolate coin candies. I only gave small amounts since my adopted grandchildren are babies after all. My students will receive pretty much all of the money they will get this year -- hopefully enough to pay for their class trip next year.

The other interesting part of the New Year's celebration (besides the fireworks) is that everyone cleans everything and gets new whatevers at this time. Now a days that means your car in addition to your house so the lines at the car washes are amazing. Everyone gets new clothes, haircuts etc. and if your were planning on buying a new couch -- this is the time. It is also considered good luck to start things during this season -- jobs, new businesses, new babies (either born or conceived) -- all of which adds to the fireworks.

Hualien

The last part of the Chinese New Year vacation began with the celebration itself. This was a little anticlimactic as we had been built up for more. The big feast occurs on New Year's Eve and I was invited to the house of one of my teacher friends. I think she drew the short straw to entertain the foreignor by virtue of the fact that she was the only one around. The custom is to go to the "other side of the family" and that means leaving town.

Dinner was excellent with several traditional dishes. We did not make the 1000 dumplings that I recalled from earlier times because, I was told, they are a southern Chinese family and the custom is northern. It was all over pretty early but I was expecting a big fireworks display but there wasn't one. The fireworks have continued, though, all through the week.

I took the train to Hualien (6 1/2 hours standing on an overcrowded train) on the other side of the island and found out where everyone had gone. The place was mobbed making it almost impossible to find a hotel room. I ended up staying in a hostel and making the decision that I am getting too old for that route, no matter how nice it was.

There are several other teachers from the group over there and three of us, plus a wife and a daughter went to Taroko Gorge the following day. Considered the most scenic spot in Taiwan -- kind of like their Grand Canyon -- it was unfortunate that the weather was pretty nasty, cloudy, foggy and rainy. It was also jammed with people. I'm glad that I remember it from when it wasn't; it truly is a lovely spot.

The next day was Hualien day. It is an interesting mid-size city and very pretty there on the ocean with mountains all around. The major product is marble and the sidewalks are made of marble fragments set in concrete.

That night we went up to a town near Ilan and spent the night with the neat South African lady we had met on New Year's Eve in Taipei. She has been here for four years and has a lovely place.

To beat the crowds, I took the bus back which guarantees you a seat, I'd had about enough of standing on trains.

Hualien

The last part of the Chinese New Year vacation began with the celebration itself. This was a little anticlimactic as we had been built up for more. The big feast occurs on New Year's Eve and I was invited to the house of one of my teacher friends. I think she drew the short straw to entertain the foreignor by virtue of the fact that she was the only one around. The custom is to go to the "other side of the family" and that means leaving town.

Dinner was excellent with several traditional dishes. We did not make the 1000 dumplings that I recalled from earlier times because, I was told, they are a southern Chinese family and the custom is northern. It was all over pretty early but I was expecting a big fireworks display but there wasn't one. The fireworks have continued, though, all through the week.

I took the train to Hualien (6 1/2 hours standing on an overcrowded train) on the other side of the island and found out where everyone had gone. The place was mobbed making it almost impossible to find a hotel room. I ended up staying in a hostel and making the decision that I am getting too old for that route, no matter how nice it was.

There are several other teachers from the group over there and three of us, plus a wife and a daughter went to Taroko Gorge the following day. Considered the most scenic spot in Taiwan -- kind of like their Grand Canyon -- it was unfortunate that the weather was pretty nasty, cloudy, foggy and rainy. It was also jammed with people. I'm glad that I remember it from when it wasn't; it truly is a lovely spot.

The next day was Hualien day. It is an interesting mid-size city and very pretty there on the ocean with mountains all around. The major product is marble and the sidewalks are made of marble fragments set in concrete.

That night we went up to a town near Ilan and spent the night with the neat South African lady we had met on New Year's Eve in Taipei. She has been here for four years and has a lovely place.

To beat the crowds, I took the bus back which guarantees you a seat, I'd had about enough of standing on trains.

Bali

I am tempted to poatpone this entry until I figure out how to illustrate it -- yes, I now have a camera -- but I'm still just as low-tech so I haven't gotten that far. Can't put off Bali, though because it was so wonderful.

The decision to take this trip was made chiefly because of cost. There has been so many publicized disasters, both natural and man made, that the tourist industry has taken a huge hit. That means that great deals are available and the intrepid threesome decided that nothing too bad could happen in five days so off we went.

Trip didn't start well since heavy fog grounded us in Taipei for an extra two hours of what was supposed to be beach time but once we arrived, the weather was gorgeous. Though the sun is very hot, there are wonderful breezes all the time so it is always comfortable. The second thing you notice about Bali is how good it smells. Really, there are flowers everywhere, both growing and picked and both kinds are used everywhere for further decoration. Our hotel -- the Ramada Bintang Bali, uses bowls of floating rose petals about every 10 feet. The hotel was super in all ways, right on the beach, amazing huge pool, beautiful grounds, super staff, fabulous breakfast spread in the morning -- the whole place was great. We did have to be careful, though, because if we exceeded any of the things included in our package, we were quickly reminded that this was a 5-star resort. The first night we had dinner by the pool with entertainment in the form of Balinese dancers. That was pricey.

The next morning we went to a spa for a wonderful massage and milk and flower bath. It was quite a treatment -- foot bath with rose petals, 45 minute massage with warm oil, steam bath, rubbing with a milk based stuff -- felt like yoghurt and then a real bath in a tub with more rose petals. Really neat.

That afternoon we went for a drive to a town that is known for its artists but mostly it is a rather frantic market with people selling wonderful things but business is clearly slow and it makes them a little too aggressive.

The next day I went diving. This included a 2 hour drive through the mountains to get to the dive site and the country is indescribably beautiful. The diving was wonderful on a US Navy ship that went down in WWII. Lovely warm clear water, beautiful fish, some familiar, some not and some familiar but in different colors than I'm used to.

The last night we went to see the sunset on the west coast at a place where they have built a temple out on the rocks at the shore. Really lovely.

All in all, Bali is as wonderful as you have seen in movies and posters. It's interesting, beautiful, lots to do and see and, at the moment anyway, not crowded. We would have the beach virtually to ourselves and I was frequently the only one in the huge hotel pool. This is too bad for the locals but really nice for the traveller!

Chinese New Year

Alright, alright, I'm back. The reason I have been so busy, and the reason that I have so much to tell, is that this is a combination of Winter School Break and Chinese New Year holiday so that we get almost a month off! The only rub is that they periodically schedule meetings or other events to get us back to school to break it up. All in all, though, it has been great.

In reverse chronological order, I'll start with the description of the Chinese New Year celebration. The Year of the Pig began with the feast on the eve -- Feb.18. I was invited to the home of one of the teachers that I know from school. I had the feeling that she had "drawn the short straw" and I realized why. Chinese New Year is traditionally spent with the other side of the family. It appears that most of my friends "other sides" are in other places in Taiwan. In fact that seems to be true for most of my town -- the place seems deserted.

The dinner was very nice but did not include the making of 1000 dumplings which I remember from other new year's dinners. I was told that that is a northern tradition and this family is from the south. So we just ate a lot, then went home.

I was expecting a huge fireworks show that night since I can see them almost every night from my unobstructed 7th floor window. Turns out they were not until Sunday night. We had also been warned that everything would be closed but that also did not happen. My town looked pretty much as it always does on Sunday morning.

Everything is decorated, though, with red ad gold streamers so it looks very festive. Also everyone gets new clothes, haircuts, etc. to start the new year so everyone looks sharp.

Children are given small red envelopes with money inside and sometimes chocolate coins wrapped in gold paper. I had 4 all made up to give to my favorite little ones but -- of course -- they all left town.

Hiatus

I know I have been a little remiss of late --and I do have a lot to tell -- but not right now. I am on my way to Bali for a few days! I'll tell you all about it when I get back.

Weddings

I went to my 2nd wedding last weekend and it followed the same pattern as the first so I guess this is pretty standard.

First, one is really only invited to the reception banquet. The wedding has taken place at some other time. In this case, on December 30 and the couple had already been to Australia on their honeymoon. My department chairman is currently on his honeymoon in Europe but the wedding reception is not until February 11. Apparently scheuling is the cause of the abitrary chronology because it seems to be accepted as a matter of course.

Anyway, this was a fellow teacher and she had arranged for a bus to take us to Tainan, where I was going that weekend anyway, so I decided to go. Actually, deciding to go is another odd thing. Everyone gives 1,ooo NT (about $30) whether they go or not. In some schools, they deduct it from your pay(!) then availability is the only issue.

We took the bus to a "marriage hall", very common here, big rooms with catering facilities that aren't used for much else. In this week's case it was a little odd because it was a very big room divided down the middle but not with a partition, just an openwork, decorative screen. On the other side was another wedding, another bride -- a little confusing.

Our bride looked lovely. She is a really beautiful girl and just looked gorgeous in her dresses. The bride changes her clothes several times during the party into different colored formals. Sometimes the last one is a traditional Chinese dress but not this time, just beautiful western styles. She looked great in all of them. These dresses are rented for the occasion so nothing is spared.

We were about 200 guests sitting at tables for 10 and there was entertainment, a singer/mc kind of person. He sang popular songs that were well known by the table of 9th grade girls, students' of the groom, who had been invited. They knew all the words, sang loudly and shrieked and squealed their delight at the whole event. Our two tables who are with this kind of student every day were not amused.

The big deal is the food. About 10 courses, usually about the same as other banquets I have been to, but all fancy and pricey -- served to impress. During the eating, and between wardrobe changes, the bride, groom and both sets of their parents come around and toast all of the guests.

When the eating is done, that is the end. No sitting around gabbing here, the purpose is the food, food finished, everyone stands up to leave. The bride and the groom stand at the door and hand out candy and cigarettes and accept kisses and best wishes and that is the end. In this case, one and one-half hours.

They will both be back at their respective schools tomorrow.

Tidbits

As the Travellin' Trio unanimously decided to stay home last weekend, I have no new exciting things to write about so a few little goodies:

- I have found a seamstress who will alter slacks for $1, and that is more than just hemming them. That only cost 50 cens.

-- Taiwan has a helmet law for motorcycle riders but it only applies to the driver (Dad), not Mom sitting behind him holding the six month old or the 3 year old standing between his legs.

-- In the middle of the miserable cold of the winter, there are gorgeous warm days like today.

-- Chinese prescription nose spray is superb.

-- The season for my beloved tangerines is coming to an end. Now in the market, each one is wrapped in plastic wrap to keep in what juice there is.

-- My hard as a rock bed continues to make me feel sorry for myself mentally but wonderful back-wise. Some of the foreignors are talking about taking them home to the states with them.

-- They have invested in treadmills for the school so now the teachers have a "fitness center". This is good for me since, although I ride my bike a lot, I can always use more exercise and my light schedule gives me plenty of time.

End of Semester Blues

I really shouldn't write anything today. My nose is dripping, my throat is sore, it is freezing here in the teacher's room, I am wearing gloves while I type this and I just realized that this is my last class withy the 9th graders.

Now, admittedly, in some cases, this is a good thing but I have gotten quite close to some of these kids. It also would have been better if I had realized it sooner and done some kind of bang up finish. While we were doing the date (as in every class) I realized that next week they have exams for three days. After that, due to the vagaries of the calendar and because Chinese New Year is late this year, we will have one week of the new semester BEFORE semester break.

Next semester I will not have the 9th grade at all and will pick up 8 classes of 7th graders. Yecch. I haven't taught that young in a long time. What I have is bad enough. It pretty much shakes out to where the top 4 classes are a joy and the bottom 4 are a waste of my time and theirs. This is a point I have tried to make to the school here since I would have a lot more impact if I had the better ones twice a week and skipped the lower ones altogether. The answer was to agree but point out how tightly the kids are scheduled.

When the program gets back together in Taipei in March, I will make this point. Their idea was to bring native speakers to the hinterlands but the hinterlands can't really take advantage of us.

Happy New Year

I just realized that my blogger site address no longer applies! Happy 2007 everybody.

We had a 3-day weekend for the New Year which we don't often have. For those of us used to flex-time schedules it kills to have to work 5 day weeks all the time so the long weekend was much appreciated.

My two travelling friends and I had decided to go to Taipei for the holiday. Taipei is "the place to be" in Taiwan but it is really far for just a weekend visit, 4 full hours on the train each way, and then I have to get home from the next town by bus or somehow. With the extra day, it sounded like a good idea.

To make it better, we imposed on a friend of a friend of a friend who had room for the three of us to stay in his apartment for free! The first treat was the apartment. It is only about a 10 minute walk from the metro station (here called the MRT). It is the top two floors of his building 7 and 8. It is a great, spacious apartment so even with his wife and two little kids, we could stay upstairs and out of their way. The upstairs also has a beautiful wrap around balcony/terrace with a neat view. We got in pretty late on Friday night, but met up with Linda, who had to take the bus, without too much trouble and got to the apartment and just crashed.

Early the next morning we went to the National Palace Museum after a scenic tour of Yangmingshan Park with great views of Taipei from the top.

Before I continue, I have to say that we had been warned that it was going to be very cold and rainy in Taipei and dressed accordingly. In fact it was in the high 60s to mid 70s every day and only cloudy with occasional showers one day. This left us pretty overdressed and carrying jackets everywhere.

The Museum was fabulous, as usual. It has been beautifully renovated and adopted the new "museumology" of having less stuff, better displayed and described. It was neat and the museum store is still gorgeous and still WAY expensive.

After the museum, we took a bus down into ShiLin, my old stomping grounds. We walked around a totally unfamiliar place, got something to eat then went to the famous Night Market. It is touted as the biggest in Taiwan and I don't doubt it. We all bought stuff and ate more -- hundred of food carts, and even though we never got to the best part of the market, the crowd just wore us out.

Sunday, I split off from the others and went back and found where my old house used to be. It's been torn down, of course, and replaced with something taller, but I could identify the spot because of the little neighborhood temple which is still there and apparently as active as ever. Then I went looking for the school I had taught in -- I knew that the American School had moved to the next town but people here were saying that the old school was still there. Yet another indication of how young some of these teachers are! There is a school there, but it isn't the old one I taught at. It is now a 4-story Taiwanese Elementary school and Kindergarden, very modern looking.

The amazing part was the stream that ran past the school and had the bad habit of flooding us regularly, has now been transformed. There are lovely high, concrete berms and the level part is a park with paved bike paths, etc. Really nice.

I walked back and window shopped. The alleys haven't changed much I told one lady that I used to buy cigarettes in the place where her shoe store is now and she said that she recognized me! Not true, of course, but sweet.

Then I went to Ximending, the old downtown. All of the stores that used to sell souveniers to tourists have been replaced with clothes stores. No more carved elephants or pirated books.

I met up with my friends at Taipei 101 -- they still call it the tallest building in the world but I'm not sure that is true. The first 4 floors are the most sophisticated and expensive shopping mall I have ever been in. Prada, Versace, Gucci, Chanel, Valentino, Armani, Tiffany, etc. One could spend a whole lot of money there. There were definitely people who were, also. Not everyone was a window shopper like us.

After a long wait, we got a table at Macaroni Grill (!!??) for dinner and dawdled to wait for midnight. Hooked up with a nice family from South Africa and some other expat Englsih teachers until it was time for the big fireworks display. We walked out and had a great spot for watching, right by the building and the show was as fabulous as advertised -- short, but fabulous. I'm such a fireworks junky but I would put it at or near the top of my list.

Hard trip home on the MRT with 500,000 of us trying to cram on but, like Washington, you get there eventually.

A great new year is beginning.